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Back to Pinball Again: Updates plus Audio Mixer and Amp

Now that I have been lazy about working on my pinball machine for a while, I got mad enough to motivate myself to work on it.  The solenoid driver board is being re-hashed, again but in the meantime I am trying to put together a 6-channel audio mixer and stereo amp.

Just quickly, to update on the solenoid driver board I've been working on the schematics for it.  I am at least doing a better job of documenting my work.  I will be posting the schematics and my first board layout soon.  Due to the board sized limitation on EagleCad freeware, I can only fit (at least I think I can) the circuitry to drive six solenoids.  I am fine by this.  It makes my solenoid power distribution more modular.  I will likely use three boards for 18 solenoids.  The EagleCad freeware is limited to a board size of 8 x 10 cm.  I could have used KiCad as it is unlimited but from what I have heard it is not as user friendly and everyone has EagleCad which makes sharing much easier.  I think I will try KiCad out in the future when the limitations of EagleCad frustrate me enough but the biggest problem I found with it was finding complete libraries for components.  Maybe I'm missing something, I do not know.  In any case, more posts coming.

Now for the audio mixer and amplifier.  I found this circuit diagram and I am planning on using the bottom right one.  Instead of the two mono channels, I will change them to a third stereo input.

I will be using the following components for this circuit:

MC33202 - Low Voltage Rail to Rail Operational Amplifier
PDB182-K425K-103A - 10 KOhm Rotary Pot (Log/Audio Taper)
P160KNP-0EC15A25K - 25 KOhm Rotary Pot (Log/Audio Taper)
SPC21349 - Audio Jack

This is the amp that I will be using.  The circuit diagram is provided in the datasheet:

TDA7269A - 14W Audio Stereo Amplifier

My speakers:

4899 - Viston Speaker 8 Ohms 30W RMS

I think I may have made a mistake on the speakers or perhaps picked the perfect one out.  I read that speakers are typically 6 to 8 ohms.  The 4 ohm ones require a larger amp to drive it.  This makes sense.  These speakers are rated for 30W RMS at 8 ohms.  My amp is only 14W so I won't blow the speakers.  There is a lot of 'rules of thumb' when it comes to audio as there are a lot of people trying to put in crazy sound systems in their Honda Civics.  I do not understand the fascination with that car and it is so over priced for what it is.  One rule of thumb I found was that the speaker power rating should be twice that of the amp.  This makes sense to me though I found others that said the opposite.  I think those other people have blown a few speakers.  To summarize, get the 8 ohm, not he 4 ohm or you will draw too much power from your amp.

If you have clicked on any of the links bar the one for the op-amp, you will see that I purchased from Newark.  They were recommended to me.  I am still waiting on my order but it has only been a couple of days.

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